Uneventful, but Wait a Minute…

Apart from sky-high stress levels it has been a fairly uneventful week so far. Wrote that before I thought too much about the week. Monday was a usual days fishing, couple of fleets foul with mine but in shallow water so not too hard to free up. Have to watch the shoulder, had it diagnosed as the equivalent of carpal tunnel syndrome of the shoulder. Bit of a pain and always need to protect it. Seals basking

in the sun on the way in.

The weather has been pretty good this week, today it bright and fresh from the south, so it a mix of wood and starting the garden make over.

Tuesday was a day of walking the pooches, casing for the wood pile, and then over the Hill for a meeting in Kyle at the BUTEC Base for a meeting about the Range expansion. Managed to get a “commitment” that the Outer Sea Area will never be closed during a Trial. Sounds fair enough but there are going to be times like now when they will be using the Outer Sea Area and we will be requested not to be there while Trial goes on. Am I too skeptical or just realistic. We keep hearing about the wonderful cooperation, mainly we do not upset the MoD operations by not fishing there. The lines of the expansion seem to have hardened and are going to be the expansion, full stop. They were the original lines on the “leaked” map, something I was told was a regular occurrence with in these establishments, although in this case there was a pretty hefty investigation following this leak. I am impressed with all the ideas put forward by the fishermen from the south on how to have a bit of dual use of the Range. They are all “being taken on board” but nothing further I fear. It was pointed out that the so-called ripple effect should be described more as a tidal effect on the boats out with the Range area when the creels have to be moved from the new restricted grounds…..on a weeks notice it seems. At the end of the meeting the last kick in the teeth was lobbed in. “There will be no compensation” for lose of the Fishing Grounds. Minister has already decided….and people still query why I voted Yes?

The journey there and back was made to feel quite short due to the company and wide-ranging discussions, mainly politics, very interesting and a little insightful shortened the journey. A bit of concentration needed on the Hill as there was a covering of snow on the road but all well. Wednesday morning meant an early trip down to the pier to refuel the Auk

before they headed out to a days diving for scallops. Received a bag of smaller scallops on Monday for a fine feed. Rather more than expected but the freezer is stocked up for the summer with lovely underaged king scallops. The morning was beautiful

with the snows still on the mountains

and the sun shinning bright.

The last couple of nights I have been pretending to be in charge at the Inn and so far it has been very smooth. Result being that I have not added to the double-digit shifts with any fishing. They have plenty prawns to sell over the weekend and the forecast for the next week seems quite settled. It was a gentle night last evening but tonight threatens to be a lot further up the scale. Full Inn and more at the Hostel alongside a pre funeral meal means at least 50/60 meals tonight. Just Zuzu and I to deal with the front. Regard it as a challenge and a reminder summer is close by. Instead of the fishing the wood gathering and dog walking take precedence in lovely weather and big tides. Went out to Sand

to check up reports on some dead sea life but did not come across any. Worth the trip though and Dougal

certainly thought so.

Catching Up on the Last Week of the Year.

Quiet at the moment but the Inn has had its moments. Saturday was a routine and mid winter evening ended with a game of scrabble as no one was out. Sunday every man and his dog came out for lunch. Even the dinning room was opened up although the customers came through to the bar as soon as there was a space. The Boss was over the Hill until it quietened off and it was a day for running to keep up with the folk coming through the door.  Food and craic was great and every one from Formula 1 connections to a new-found relation…..I think. Turns out the Doc’s mum is from Stockinish, Harris. Three generations ago my family left Leac a’Li just up the road so the conversation went along the lines of who were the relations. Thought we drew a blank when the Morrisons an McCuishes were ruled out but Donald Caley came to the rescue. Not sure what the relationship is but I know he is related to my Dad’s first cousin and also to Doc’s mum. So there we are, the Doc and I are now calling each cousin, sure that will wear off. The London banker and the Australian salmon vet were interesting. He could not really answer the question “Why can we not print money to put into the NHS as we have just printed 375 billion to put into the stocks, shares and bond markets to keep the people who caused the crash afloat.” Did not receive a real answer, just a Zimbabwe reaction that we get that for land reform. Always put these reactions down to people not really able to provide a genuine answer to the problem in hand, but have to watch one does not overstep when serving. They left happy having a birthday cake served and sung to her.

Not even sure when the above was written, that’s what I get when I do a couple of short posts that show sunsets

and dancing on the deck of the Varuna.

It is now coming to the end of the first day of the year and it involved being in recovery mode, annoying as no alcohol was consumed. During yesterday afternoon I thought about a Crabbies or two but the head told me otherwise. Turned up to work at 2pm and caught the end of the lunchtime feeding. This was after a morning at the creels. Went out a little earlier than usual as Son No3 was expecting a visitor from Plockton.

Hauled 250 for a better than expected fishing, even squats on the menu for a short time, so may keep everyone happy at the Inn. And the weather was pleasant for most of the morning.

Had a pleasant surprise in meeting Andy Wightman and family who were over for lunch. Wee catch up before he headed down to see Alison and call into Jack’s Gallery. The afternoon passed quickly as apprehension rose knowing the evening was fully booked. Change into the “Spirit of the Highlands” tartan kilt, Scottish music on the iPod and the scene was set. Turned out Chisholm the kilt man’s son was in one of the big groups and involved a fair bit of banter. And he was looked after even when he spilt his peppercorn sauce on his kilt. A remarkably smooth sitting mainly due to Judith constantly looking after where everyone could sit in comfort. All we had to do was serve the guests. The kitchen got panned around 8pm with three big tables all ordering at the same time alongside the other orders. Huge compliments all round and it was a happy bunch who headed down to the Ceilidh at the Hall. As the community bus was out of action Judith spent the last hour of the year transporting people to the Hall. Throughout the evening I was pumping myself full of painkillers and was in a spot of bother by the time of the Bells. There was a great atmosphere with lots of happy revellers but little dancing. Bit frustrating as the one tune that was played in the hour I was there, a Gay Gordons, had the floor full. Despite the headache had promised to teach a couple of partners a Scottish dance or two but not to be. Son No4 piped in the bells, we think, as there were three count downs and Son No3 played a fine set of tunes as the backdrop to an intricate dance off by one of our visiting transvestites. Only in Applecross comes to mind. With the crowd there and the buzz it could have been a night to remember with a little organising but not to be….maybe next year.

Most of the rest of the week that was in the slightest bit productive involved turning up at the inn and putting a few hours in, watching a spectacular sunset and walking the Dougal

on the Bay sands,

 

 

ordering the Celtic Connection tickets and nipping up to the Hydro

to watch the money ticking over. With Sons No3 and 4 home Dougal has had a fine time, at Sand on one occasion being given a helping hand on the Sand dune.

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Accompanied by our new Mexican friend, Marieclau. The last one was one of the final photos taken by this camera due to the capering Dougal who managed to get it covered in sand. All in all it has been a happy friendly thought-provoking and interesting few days and the home will be lonelier after the departures tomorrow of Rachel, Marieclau,No3 and 4 and they will all be missed but everyone has their own lives to lead.

The Friendliest Inn in The Highlands.

What a complex mix of emotions over the last 48 hours. Starting out at the back of eight and a quick look in to see Mick on site already done an hour and a half. Roofers away having completed the House and Mick was just doing a site tidy.

The next stop after following the gritter over the Hill

was to Kyleakin for the first MoD public meeting five days before the “consultation” ends. Using inverted commas as calling the process so far a consultation is disingenuous. Generally consultations are carried out at the start of a process and ones the Scottish Government carry out last at least twelve weeks not 35 days increased to 49. We were given the controls over the land and sea that the new bylaws allow, the road to Sand, the foreshore and for me the right to close the outer sea area when the need arises. Passage over the Range is also in the hands of the Range operators. When asked for assurances that these powers will not be used we were told “ordinarily”, “don’t think at the moment”,”fishing can broadly take place”, were the responses when asked for reassurance about the outer sea area. There seems that little can be done about the inner sea area as the cabling and ducts have already been built and placed at the cable corridor coming out of Sand. It would be better for relations and an element of trust if we were told what we already know. What is happening at Sand is not maintenance but the new investment. Hiding behind a maintenance program and not being totally honest about the work at Sand is not helping us working together. The Range expansion is needed for the new technologies and bigger structures being put in the water. The socio/economic study has not been carried out so we do not know the dramatic effects of this will be on the local economy. An example, £1500 of local shellfish landed to the Applecross Inn becomes £4500 as value is added creating employment and profit on the peninsula. And that is for one week in the summer. Despite the awkward questions asked we have to find a way to exist together and continue good relations on the ground as long as possible. Ian Blackford called for a suspension of the process until studies have been properly carried out and assessed. I have my doubts but still hope to be fishing these waters my father and grandfather have long after Trident has been deemed obsolete.

So started with hydro and now back onto hydro with a quick leafleting of the “top table” before calling in and seeing Sandy as to when we hope to see SSE in Applecross. The problems of Abigail have turned out not to be so severe as hyped by the media. There is a line that keeps tripping and other smaller problems but Monday seems to be on the cards for work on the connection. Again like the MoD there is a huge difference with the people on the ground and how they have to deal with pressures from above and outside. How that affects us here may be further down their list of priorities and the local guys can do nothing about it. As long as we realise these pressures we can keep lines open locally and work with guys that know and sympathise with our situation.

Now on the way to Inverness and a quick call into Eilean Donnan castle to drop off some hydro leaflets.

The drive through Cluanie

 

to Invermoriston was beautiful,

shafts of sunlight on snow and water made for a very pleasant journey. Bit of a shop, a kilt pickup, snooze and was ready for the Award Dinner.

A curious mixture of an evening as it turned out. Met Tanya, of Kylesku Hotel fame, on the way in for a short photo shoot, then being mistaken for a musician who played at a friend’s wedding in Pitlochry, before making our way into the dining room. Speeches quickly over and the food was astounding. Pressed salmon, baby squid and crab, the venison fillet or the parsnip ice cream….take your pick and that was amongst many other delights. And after some fine, fine music we fire through the awards. There is a big screen that shows the various establishments up for the awards playing on repeat. Phil and Donald are shown prominently much to the repeated amusement and whooping from part of our table. We settled into the social drinking part of the evening.

Great to see Kyleskhu win hospitality award. There is great camaraderie between some establishments and the Kyleskhu guys are coming down to the Applecross in a couple of weeks. Judy said Tanya went a little pale when I said it would be a good idea for us to go up there. And apart from Kyle winning the young ambassador of the year the whoop of the night came when Judy won the Friendliest Establishment of the Year.

We agreed ahead that Steve would go for the Most Informal and I would accompany the Friendliest. A fine honour to accompany one of the finest landladies in the country. This photo is courtesy of Pammie, one of our friendly staff.

Lots of congrats all round, people who I had served, seemingly, were coming up to us and the photos were taken some better than others but great feeling of achievement all round.

The lady who had mistaken me for the musician came back and explained I had told her at the Inn about how the langoustine were caught. She was with the Dolphin Centre, shortlisted but had not won. She came back over after we had won and explained, word about sustainable fishing is getting out there. Then news seeped in about Paris and the awfulness of our world. You could not have two extremes. The opulence of the our room to the death and despair some Parisians would have been feeling. Kept quiet but Son No3 was over in Paris for the week. Found out via Caroline at breakfast he only knew about it in the morning. You stop your mind going to “what if” places. It is coming closer and it brings home what has already been already happening in other countries for the past decades. Decent people are on the move to get away from these inhuman acts. The dehumanizing of war, whether through drones or suicide bombs, helps the cause of destruction of everyone’s civilisation. Neither work, the only results are fear, horror and hopelessness. The festivities continued although there were many mentions of the Parisian horrors. On an aside I wonder what new law Dot was trying to get Fergus to pass next week.

Taxis duly arrived and I went in the sensible one back to the hotel and not on to Johnny Fox’s as I had already pushed my boat well away from the shore.

All the was needed yesterday was to buy a kilt, get home in one piece, check and bail boats

 

and do an easy shift at the Inn. A good evening at the Friendliest Inn in the Highlands. Almost forgot, a couple of quieter days on the fund raising front but still the total climbs to just over £470,000.

Hydro and Disconnected Gearboxes.

Walking down from the site of the Pen Stock at the Hydro Intake, Mike Vass playing his In the Wake of Neil Gunn, just low enough so the tumbling of Alt Breugach over the rocks is also part of the music, all is well in my world. Put that together with the expansive, awesome view of the Inner Sound and blue sky you would expect me to say that. The last part of the journey has been a little fraught and to explain one has to be on board the Varuna around 2.30pm on Thursday afternoon. The had started so well with the sacrificial hauler plates changed

along with the knife

on the way out. Never like “just steaming” and have to be doing something. The last fleet of seven just hauled and was kept on board to take ashore for a wash when things went awry. I had previously picked up one of my own ropes, cut, respliced it and dropped it over the side before finishing my fleet. Turned to go home when I heard the sound of rope in propeller. Bit puzzled as I had all my rope on board but then realised that it was the other rope that I had spliced had caught either on my sounder or the keel and then went into the prop. Bar tight and tried to get clear again by putting into gear and hoping the rope cutter on the prop shaft would do the job. Unfortunately what happened was like putting a winch pull on the gearbox which smashed the centre of the drive plate and pulled out of the bell housing.

It was still just engaging so hooked rope, onto the creel hauler to cut free and engage gear but too much and complete breakdown.

Nothing for it but to call for assistance and DJ on the Grace Anne was the recipient, coming across from Raasay, a fair bit to the south, but rope on and an hour and a half later we were back on the moorings, grateful for the help.

When a little younger fretting about lost time and expense would always kick in but now there is too much to do. Showered and up to the Inn where the Boss was taking the evening off so it was Linda and myself out front. A good night and all the tables enjoyed themselves, so many people are just a little sad in leaving and I have attended more than a few “last suppers”. New group have been in at least twice, live in London but were so complimentary about amazing food and friendliness. Phone call to our resident engineer, Ewen, to explain my plight and arrange an early morning visit to the Varuna. I think it is fair to say bad enough but could have been worse, always have in mind the Ivanhoe which was lost in Portree Sound with a rope in the prop, tried to remove it by thrashing the engine revs and ended up cracking the stern gland and sinking. Last thing before coming ashore yesterday was checking any water intake which was nill. What I have never done is to raise the revs to try and free any ropes, just not worth it, enough damage without doing that.

Lift over the Hill with Ewen, after taking numbers and details for part ordering, walk round the head of Loch Kishorn,

 

 

followed by a lift to the Van Hospital out side Lochcarron. The lift almost came too soon as everything was stunning, more than a little hint of autumn.

DMK Motors and another fine job done, back over the Hill,

down for the bike and up to the Hydro Scheme to see the further progress. Worked up a sweat in the beautiful weather but well worth it to see how it is going, getting ready to pour tomorrow,

having finished putting the panels up, this being where the water falls over the dam, through the screen and fills up the box before making its way down to the turbine house and generating electricity,

while Steve was laying the first of the pipes.

 

A few more lengths to go but the speeds they are working at….no problem, so thinks Dougal.

Gravel sand mix arrived and I nipped half way back up, well quarter of the way, to see where they wanted the load dropped. knackered by this times and have settled for a couple of bacon and egg rolls, a cracking mug of Peruvian coffee and The Elephant Sessions playing in the background. One or two wee rumours suggesting they may be heading this way. So I should be cheesed off, down but what ever switch was flicked about three months ago is still on and a wood cut is on the cards for the afternoon. (written yesterday afternoon.) Two ways of looking at events, could mope about a four figure bill and four figure loss of revenue or think that I have a bit of time in the next week or so to catch up in so many things.

The week had been quite good for weather,

langoustine catches and work effort. Mornings,

 

 

followed by pleasant days at sea

and meeting regulars at the Inn have filled the days. On Thursday evening took a trip back with Ian Wallace, over with Jamie, and recalled with him many of the old names and characters sadly gone from the area, Straight, Douchie Douch, Peerie, Morag, Straight and Gillies and many more. He had been woking on the first bit of the Sand road with RJ Macleod’s and had a pretty impressive memory going way back to the 70s. On the odd grey day there has been plenty of activity going,

Dougal and Eilidh are getting plenty of exercise with all the coming and going.

Little time to read about supposed rogue helicopters landing on the shore outside the Inn.

Some one put something up on YouTube and it was picked up by the press, a no news day. Good response from the Boss.

Collecting Americans and an Engagement.

On the point of getting repetitive saying how the hours are filled up. Reminds me of being told how the Orcadian outdoors people find almost manic amounts of energy during the long days of summer knowing that it will end with many dark days of winter ahead. It feels a little like that and who knows where this energy comes from but it feels natural and a waste not to use it.

The Sunday shift began with a trip out to the Varuna to pick up some prawns for the Inn and by 12.10pm we were knee-deep in customers. Noticed the road side at Milton full, mainly of meadow-sweet.

Every table being used and only three of us holding the fort. A wee bit scary at times but went well and what started with Hawaiians, who were over setting their daughter up at Edinburgh Uni, ended up with a day that we decided to call “collecting Americans day” By the end of the day we had chatted to a mother and daughter from S Carolina, met a services family, living in Cambridge, but from N Carolina and California, next on the list were the couple from Wisconsin closely followed by the two from New Orleans and the day was finished off by the two exuberant recently graduated PAs from Florida who were called Catherackie. Seems always together and knew what each thought and said, Catherine and Jackie. Scary the amount of money is involved in the American education and health systems. Went in to say cheerio to them and was wearing one of my Tibetan colourful jackets which was immediately commented on. Conversation went along the lines of Joseph’s coat of many colours and I could not for the life of me remember the Dolly Parton song, that was until The Shetlander strolled in, she had had one or two since last seen, took one look and started singing, “Coat of Many Colours”, the Dolly version. Don’t think she quite knew why we were laughing so much. In amongst all this “weather” we are also shown what a wonderful place it is with the unexpected.

Driving anywhere just now can be difficult for “locals” as many people on the road do not comprehend that not every one is on holiday. Generally slow or inattentive driving does not bother me even if I am on a time but the driving over the Hill last Friday was special. On the way up it was the usual, behind five cars trucking along at thirty, made easier listening to Rura, Despite the Dark. Lost a couple at the car park at the top but picked an Italian up at the first hair pin on the other side. Parked, or so I thought, but no, darted into the traffic and now joined our queue of four cars. Going well round the second hairpin with one car parked there but at the last bend one car decides to cross the road and another stays on the left while a stream of cars come up and edge between them both. Not quick enough with the camera while the chaos below cleared we all set off down the Slips when I noticed the driver in front was taking pictures on the move. Now I reckon I know the road pretty well but even I would baulk at this. Was obviously too much scenery she was missing so she pulled in to take more photos, letting me past was incidental. Getting a clear run and now running a little late reverted back to my old method of driving, that is putting the headlights on (not full beam) and driving at a fair pace up behind the cars in front. Remarkable how quickly one lets you pass. Not dangerous but I like to call it noticeable driving. It seems to work as I never flash my lights or use the horn.

A sort three-day fishing marathon has just been completed with a still reasonable but declining catch. I think it is going to be hard to keep the langoustines on the menu as the creels are filling up with the female carrying their eggs. The occasional creel is just emptied back over the side with a half-dozen returned to set their eggs into the plankton chain next year. There are always the birds,

 

unfortunately we are not seeing many dolphins or whales about. Managed to wash and mend and reset two fleets, by early start on Monday morning to finish a wash and again missing a meal at the Walled Garden to wash the next one.

Missing a good meal did have its compensation though as I made my way back across the bay around half nine.

The rope on this fleet was spotted by today’s passenger Karen and it was alive with tiny crustaceans.

Amusingly her partner, Darren, who is a cycle expert promised to have a look at my ebike and while he was doing so he was pulled up by a passing “local” asking if he was taking parts of it and another took his registration number. Good to see us checking up on anything unusual….and he did not have a Scouse accent, sorry. Chain cleaned and brakes now work well. The weather was perfect for Karen

 

who tailed a few squats for the Inn and seemed to enjoy her day at sea. Weather was still fine on Tuesday although there was a fairly stiff breeze that blew up in the afternoon,

not made any better by have to put one of my fleets back together after removing two other fleets from over the top of it. Like driving one just gets on with it. Another change in the season after coming back from Cambridge has been the appearance of the “scalders” ,the stinging jelly fish, although we do not have the midges of Ullapool to contend with.

Noticed a string of eggs that are coming up, may have been around before but not registered. not sure at about their provenance.

And towards the end of the afternoon and low-lying sea mist rolled down the Raasay

and Skye shoreline

before being quickly burnt off by the strong sun. So signing off with the knowledge that all the creels are hauled and rebated, another fleet on board to be taken ashore to be washed and the forecast is for strong winds. I rather like this changeable weather system as it gives a brief recovery time. Family news has been concerned with American visitors, Alison’s cousins from Oregon, Dave and Jan, along with Raymond. They stayed a couple of nights, one of which was the meal at the Walled Garden and the other was a Thai squat lobster curry rustled up by me courtesy of the Inn’s paste and a few additions. Todays freshly caught squats being the star attraction. The sunset with the mist back in called for a wee trip outside.

The other important visitors were son No 4 and Rachel who have been up for the week and have announced their engagement. They are well content together but amusingly went up to Sand to do the deed but found it overrun with little Yorkshire people so went off to Ardban instead where it was a lot quieter. It’s Applecross and all relative, it does not take many people to make our beaches crowded, at least to us. So life goes on and the next generation are finding their feet and living their lives. A shift at the Inn finished yesterday off, quieter and the light outside emptied the bar at one stage. But more of that later. Morning off, away on the bike to see what is happening about our hydro scheme, call into the Inn to check hours, do a dip at the superb looking Filling Station replete with photos,

erected by Padge, and a bit of paperwork this afternoon. Dougal and Eilidh will be my side riders. Now really signing off, there is more much more.

Supposed to be Anti Rotational.

Anti rotation pump is something I did not think I would be talking about, but as I ended up ankle-deep in hydraulic oil in my engine room it turned out to be quite important.

A wee portent of the weather that appeared today showed its face over Raasay as the shift started last night.

low-key shift last night with the MoD boys in as usual Inn family but little else to keep one occupied. Scored later with a breaded wolf fish as the lady wanted one pan-fried. Some good but slightly depressing chats, especially the one about how scarce the young folk are and as usual the lack of accommodation. Have had a couple of in-depth conversations about the future of our wee place and again a worrying trend in place. The guys from Hamilton were sparky and provided some irreverent humour about the Dukes of Hamilton and Buccleuch’s origins. One or the other, maybe both were cited as the bastard descendant of Charles the second. On to be born of good stock, takes away so many of the every day stresses. One only has to keep what one has.

Genuinely excited about the sea-going today. Trip to the pier for bait and left the bike at the endless line and cleared the seaweed from the rope all in readiness for a day at sea. Weather beautiful and over the Hill

to see the Varuna already sitting in her cradle and ready for the off.

Noticed the recovered landing craft on the beach

before heading out past a showing of fish,

the Applecross Hills

and down Loch Kishorn.

Stunning day, flat calm and passed several boats making the most of the weather. Mood was buoyant and she felt new with all the bits and pieces in the right place and working. Steel plate in the deck where hydraulic pipes had worked themselves free of the fibre glass,

new flood light

and radio ariels all sorted.

Deck all sorted and ready for hauling by the time I was passing the Crowlins.

So had time to programme the new radio, I find if I read instructions it’s not a problem. So onto the first fleet and then the wee problem. All good until 3/4s of the first end up when the hauler died. Familiar problem but as the tank had been topped up thought it a bit strange that I would be out of oil. Everything okay on deck so looked below to find 80 litres of hydraulic oil swimming around the engine beds and the last of it pouring out the seal at the back of the pump. Nothing for it but to head for home and after a couple of abortive phone calls back over the Hill to see Ewen. He was mystified and said he would be over once he finished at the Yard. Took the Varuna in to the Pier where he replaced old with new and saw the seal on the new one burst. After a check on turning the engine worked out the old one was anti rotational but was marked as rotational so the new one worked against and burst the seal. After filling another can from new and sieving some from the floor, luckily no water involved, replaced the oil as well as the pump. Seals will be ordered and pump turned around and all is well sometime during next week.

Have to say felt pretty carp for a couple of hours on the way in and going over to the Yard but solutions sought, found and sorted means I hope to be on the water first light tomorrow. Tied up with the rope over the new cat head

and admired the search light,

mood lighter. Came ashore around sixish

to enjoy a lovely sunset over Raasay

and again just south of the Tor Mor with Dougal and Eilidh.

At peace listening to the water falling in the Alt na Chriche and losing the smell of oil in the evening breeze.

Snow and Boats.

Took a bit of effort getting to the boat today and as you can see the coast road was the second choice,

always is for us locals, whoops, residents. Was not sharp enough away this morning before the Hill was experiencing a white out, nothing for it but to turn back, fill up with diesel which I had forgotten to do first time round and then head for Lochcarron the long way round. Bank, shop and then the Yard to start cleaning the Varuna.

German Writing is hard work to remove so the plan was to start cleaning in three to four different places and by the end of the week she should sparkle, for another week anyway. Showers kept coming through but the hills, when the sun shone, glittered with the fresh snow.

Such a contrast, this bustling Yard and the back drop of the Applecross hills.

Managed a big bag of rubbish off the boat and two buckets of barnacles, writing and mussels of the rudder, keel and prop. These have not been copper painted and are difficult to clean up against the Pier so making good use of the slings. Stayed till five before going back over the reopened Bealach. Stopped at the top and stepped out to take a couple of snaps

before realising the wind chill and shower that had descended. Was not out long and would not survive in these conditions if not prepared.

Sunday Lunch with Razors and Towels.

A huge percentage of the time I really enjoy being at the Applecross Inn, the craic, the banter, food, companionship, atmosphere, the list goes on but some days just surpass themselves, and this was one of them. It started innocently enough with me going out to the Varuna for langoustine for the Loch Ness Inn.

Judith was starting her sojourn south with her Dad, who was genuinely excited to be heading south,

and sister to visit various relatives in the deep south. That accomplished it was the bike and trailer with a box of fine prawns arriving at the Inn in plenty of time and just as well as not long there the “boys” arrived down from the hostel for breakfast.

As it was a fairly late breakfast the black pudding bacon and sausage rolls were accompanied by the regular partaking of pints of lager. That was the scene on tables 2 and 3 until I left the Inn at the back of seven. Ten hours of constant motion bar a ten minutes sit down for a fine roast of Cuaig beef. The expected slow winter’s day disappeared like water of a cormorant’s back and by 12.30/1.00 it was a full bar. They came from Kyle, Lochcarron, Coillieghillie, Shieldaig and the East. The big group arrived around 2.00,but more of them later. It was full on and at the start of the day we had Steve in the kitchen wondering what he was going to do with the prawns at the end of the day to selling them out along with the squats, cod, chowder and crab, scallops and haddock were the only survivors. My new policy of asking people I sort of recognise back fired a bit early on and later. Really should have recognised Amy from Cuaig, found that rather embarrassing and also Dan and Rohaise from The Torridon. It works both ways when I recognise people who do not expect it. Huge range of conversations you get involved in, old-time fishing photos, sailing, what people do, for example the Irish civil engineer from Belfast who had recently moved to Glasgow, she could not believe where she was. The snow drifts, football and rugby and renewable energy all came and went. Meanwhile in the dinning room the ale and chardonnay flowed along with copious amounts of scallops, prawns and the odd steak being consumed. The idea seemed to come from one source and although hair brained took root, a swim in the loch. When it was pointed out it was n’t a loch but was a Sound attached to the Minch that did not reduce the enthusiasm. No preparation as it was a spur of the moment, so we had to deal with some slightly odd requests. The towels were the first and then as I went in to clear tables and take sweet orders I was witness to the women discussing and showing various underwear from thongs to lace……as said before “extra ordinary scenes in the Gold Mine”. Preparations continued as did service and then I had the request that did it. One of the girls realised she had not shaved her legs for such a time that I was asked for a razor, so she could partake in the swim. I was told that the razor was needed to get rid of “her forest”, by this time I was laughing. They were spectacular entertainment, sweets were served and all went quiet until about twenty mins later a girl wrapped up in towels, and nothing else, came in through the front door and headed for the toilets. The ring leader had not bottled it but had dipped into the Inner Sound on a cold grey February day. The afternoon certainly had a swing to it and there were a few comments from the lager boys but all in the best possible taste. In amongst all of this David and Michelle and Arthur’s mates from Yorkshire quietly and enjoyably ate their meals. And today’s famous visitor was the brother of Eoin Jess. For those puzzling over who Eoin might be, like Judith for one, he was a fine footballer who played for Aberdeen and Scotland. Eat your heart out Marty. The dinning room group left with fulsome praise of Judith’s Inn and will be back. Things were quieter by the time I had left, plenty of people but drinking limits were being reached and end was in sight for a few of the morning stalwarts. Small world syndrome reared its head when Jack spotted his exheadmaster……from Cambridge.

Saturday produced a decision that meant, barring warm water holidays, I have had my last dive. I plan to pass on my kit to son No3 if he wants it, currently skipper of a dive club in Dundee. Went diving for the lost box of prawns, did not have my hood and lasted in the water about two minutes before pulling the pin. Did not feel safe enough to continue and decided I am not in the water enough to be safe any more. The Auk boys hopefully will recover my box this week coming. It is that time of year… the scallop divers have arrived.

This event as much as the weather heralds the start of the season. From the dive suit to a hot shower and an afternoon asleep in front of the rugby got us to a fine first half of the French game and very enjoyable it was too before going up to the Inn for an evening shift. As absorbed in the game only caught the end of a fine sunset that was seen across the country.

At one stage it was suggested that I would not need to come out to work, as it turned out there was plenty to do until the back of ten.Phone call from home saying Dougal was not coming in and by the time I arrived home he was AWOL. After a couple of hours I fell asleep on the couch and at 7.15am there he was looking a bit cowed sitting by the gate. He is just too pretty to be giving him a good row so he dozed on the couch for a while before the day started in earnest. Little did we know what was in store, Applecross “you canna beat it.”

Two Days at Sea, finishing with a Rant.

After waiting a little while for the tide so I could launch my dingy, I went fishing for the first time this month. It is easy to see why there is little incentive to go out at the moment when you tally up such a small catch after hauling 250 creels. Still it was good to go out on such a fine morning

with the snow caps surrounding the Sound.

 

The sunlit morning did not last much into the afternoon and with a breeze and clouding over it became bitterly cold.

Must change a fuel filter before going fishing again, few revs up on the way out. Settled down or the rest of the day so job for the bad weather.You always know what season you are in seeing what is coming up in the creels and with me not being out much the squid have been laying on the ropes and creels.

When I finally made it home cold, very cold there was a message suggesting a trip back out to Rona to fix the turbine again. This time it had seized solid and coupled with lightning damage on Arnish the North Coast Broadband is down again. Parts to be ordered for Arnish and Sean will be heading out there once they come through. Complicated and still regarded as teething problems I suppose. Not good for the North coast people but we will get there.

So it was an earlyish start and after loading up and not changing the filter we were alongside the pontoon on Rona by 10.30am. As Bill was not around it was a gird one’s loins, load up and off up the hill to the station. Time was a factor as the Portree ferry was due at 11.30am and needed the pontoon so when we were up at the mast

an eye was kept out for the boat coming across the Sound. Having spotted it and timed the ascent we quickly lowered the mast, disconnected the seized turbine

with which I headed off down the Hill to the Varuna,leaving Sean to do the technicals to replace and reconnect. I made it down in time, moved off and came back on the outside of the Aspire.

She was a scallop dredger working from Islay for twenty years before heading down to Whitby for a refurbishment and is now the ferry to Rona from Portree. Beautiful ship and was very delicate in coming alongside her.

Unloaded and gave a wee hand shifting tanks strainers and the odd box about while Sean was up doing his connecting thing. The staining on the wheelhouse reminded me of my Dad who stained many a fishing boat when they came up for their annual at the Yard in Kyle.

The Aspire made off back to Portree and the Varuna to Applecross, not before talking possible solutions to our Broadband Systems for the North. Coming out of the Blind Sound we were treated to a light show over Raasay. Do not often see Dun Can from this angle and not in this lighting.

Seeing we are on the Community today the dreaded de minimus is rearing its head again. Firstly as I get ready for a rant against one and all there is no personal getting at anyone but this situation we are in is crazy and people who have far more positive things to do are trying to work out ways for us to proceed. All the founders, agencies and consultancies are in place to help people and communities who are prepared to help themselves but need a bit of seed corn to set up services that either big business decide it is not worth their coin to help or through public funding cuts. So why and who makes it so difficult for us to comply with all the rules and regulations. I understand the need for the above to prevent the abuse the some organisations carry out to get their hands on public money, usual those that are already rich enough not to need grant funding but do not move without it. In our case at the moment we are battling to get money released to progress the Hydro Private Wire, again only as a result of being sold a “package” which was not as it seemed. 90kw seems is not 90kw when it is sold as a connection to the Grid. This latest grant/loan wil take us over our 200,000 euros limit, and just for three months at that. Of course most of that is our broadband grant which we were only told was de minimus when we were awarded it and the rule has changed on this but not for us as there is no retrospective ruling. So communities who apply for the same grant as we got do not have this ruling imposed on them but we do……no wonder we are cheesed off, language modified. And how on earth are we distorting completion by providing a service where no one else will. Where is the competition? Now we have the best of people trying to give us advice on how to proceed, quite frankly I would argue that if any one came for their grant back I would first of all say that it wasn’t in breach of any rule and if they insisted then close us down and then see what happens. Surely we should be encouraged in what we are trying to achieve not have these daft obstructions put in our way to make our lives even harder. Bearing in mind that Sean and I were over on Rona earlier today getting the first stage of the broadband up and running again we really do not need this unnecessary stuff to deal with. Local Developement Officers should be spending their time on more constructive matters rather than trying to work out ways are these man made obstacles. One solution offered is to set up yet another community company and when the time period expires hand it over to the original Company. Again low numbers of population and even lower numbers for directors so why make it harder? Rant over and no one even spotted I was ranting as I between rants I be been serving customers for the last 2 1/2 hours.

Scottish Rural Parliament.

It was one of those days. Should have known as the last thing I said when I left the house was “I can’t be bothered”. Must have really meant it as the better half was surprised that I went fishing. Just as well the weather was good, despite a rolling motion coming down from the north. The wind must have been blowing a bit harder out by the Hebrides and we got the left overs.

Back to the wee disasters. First fleet, came to the end added a creel and then put the rope in the prop. Not deliberately of course, so cut rope, resplice, and get going again. Put knife down and it goes over the side. Next fleet, north end, first six creels foul and is all well until the second end and result is have to haul it on board to sort out. Doing a multi task and the buoy disappears only to jam in the prop/rudder. Another rope cut and take a chance by putting her in gear. Buoy pops out with only a little rope left in prop. Next fleet hauled okay but when shooting back a bundle of eight creels go over at the same time towards the end. By this time I am wondering what I did wrong. The next one is shot over by a neighbour and is quite a struggle to get it up and clear from the other fleet. The buoy gets tangled in the shooting back and a mini chaos reigns for twenty minutes. Keep the head and go for another fleet. And all’s well. No tangles either on the way in or the way out and there were some prawns in it as well. Although there was the heavy motion coming down the Sound the day was spectacular

 

and by the time I was heading in it was all gentle and calm.

Coming across the Bay always enjoy looking to the settlements at Milton

and Shore Street.

There was a little more to come though as I put the box of squat tails on the shore they coped over and ten minutes were spent picking the tails out of the bladder wrack seaweed like winkles from the shore and to finish off I had to phone the Doc as a tourist had fallen over, been picked up by Rod who was at the Surgery just up the road, and was holding up her pinky which was going in all directions.

There were many good parts to the day but all the mishaps do tire you out and then there is the shift at the Inn. Wednesday evening passed gently through a nice sunset

and without incident, two lobster themidors instead of one was easily dealt with by cheffie. And home in reasonable time. Getting used to not putting on the telly to wind down. Not quite got the smart TV up and running but expected visitor today will be asked for advice.

Thursday began with a little irony pointed out by Marion. Took photo of TESCO van in town and belatedly noticed the slogan, “Recently clicked” as I snap a wee shot of the van going by.

Lots of things going on on the shopping front locally and seems to be a sign of the times. For decades there was a well-respected butcher outlet in Lochcarron recently sold and very quickly sold and currently shut with possible intention of turning into flat conversion. Butcher arriving on Wednesday morning in the form of Kenny Morrison from Gairloch along with Kyle butcher George Macrae planning to make inroads as well.  Same here, long-term shop sold and quickly trashed. At least we still have a good wee shop that tries against the odds to survive.. Ongoing pressure from outside influences from Royal Mail to Supermarkets will test this outlet to the limit in the coming years. So a trip to the Scottish Rural Parliament was a good way to head out-of-town and exchange views with other communities about our problems and opportunities. Good to see so many people there considering some of the low turnouts across rural Scotland. Apart from the interesting interaction and chat three things stuck in the mind. The first being that there is plenty money in the system it is just going in the “wrong direction”. Why would you subsidise land owners and corporations with CAP and FIT payments when they already have everything. In fact estates are bought and sold on the income generated through subsidy now. Land reform needs to be carried out and the spiralling  value of land graph needs to be brought under control. Remember being shown a graph showing business and property values compared to the tax imposed on them and showing the tax exempted land completely out of sinc with other values. This was during a workshop at the Community Land Scotland AGM. And thirdly, why not have local decisions overturn national ones rather than the other way round. A salmon farm which is put in place for national reasons but may have detrimental local outcomes should not go ahead as these reasons can be given more status than increasing the trade balance with China. Do not see any of these aspirations happening in the short-term but if they filter up into the system and grow in strength maybe the establishment and those in power will have to listen to and represent the “masses” better than they are doing now. Drive back through Lochcarron had some pleasing views out on the loch.

Driving my recently MOTed van picked up from DMK’s after getting new pads and discs due to underuse and rust. Can’t win. Had to stop at Kishorn for a wee snap looking out the loch.

Nice drive back, autumn well under way

and straight to work at the Inn. Very pleasant shift with a wee burst at eightish but lots of time to talk to the marine biologist and landscape gardener along with a long and satisfying conversation about the IndyRef. A view from the South and very interested in a view from the North. Like these chats where opinions are exchanged and changed by putting points across without any aggression. And even better later on, the Inn cleared as if by magic and no one there at eleven, so home by twelve.

Today was fairly sedentary as I decided not to go fishing and had prawns hanging so could fulfil last nights promises. Out to the Varuna and up the road with a half-dozen kilos. Low tide

 

and bright sunshine makes for lots of birds at the low water mark.

Back for a bit of wood chopping and dog walking before digging some tatties and harvesting a bit of lettuce and garlic for the tea. Simon staying the night as he is going up to fit the dish on the SW building at Diabeg tomorrow with Sean. So the North Coast chappies can start getting excited about getting their broadband on stream in the next couple of weeks, assuming of course there are no hitches tomorrow.